Mo 24.10.2005 – Mi 26.10.2005

Die Erfindung des Rades?

Am Morgen hören wir, wie Stiere mit einer unheimlichen Last unter Schreien und Schlägen an uns vorbei getrieben werden. Wir sehen nach und können es kaum glauben.

Da ziehen vier Stiere einen Holzschlitten die Steigung mit rund einer halben Tonne Bohnensäcken beladen, hinauf an die Straße, wo die Säcke an LKWs verkauft werden. Die Tiere plagen sich enorm – fragen sich wohl, warum die Erfindung des Rades an ihren Besitzern spurlos vorüber gegangen ist...

Nagelprobe

Heute ist gleich die erste stark ansteigende Stelle eine Nagelprobe. Mit voller Konzentration und allem fahrtechnischem Können schaffen wir ausgeruht eine der Schlüsselstellen der Strecke. Hört denn das nie auf? Das ist doch nicht möglich! Eine rund einen Meter tiefe und 40 Meter lange Lacke ist nicht zu schaffen. Die Umfahrung mit Felsen durchsetzt. Mist! Ergo klettern wir Zentimeter für Zentimeter über die Brocken... usw. usf!

Kurz vor Toco ist die Strecke wieder mit Sand und Laterit ausgebessert – ein Segen für eine Regenzeit. In den letzen beiden Tagen waren 70 Kilometer für uns die absolute Grenze des Fahrbaren.

 

Lubango

Padre Louis nimmt uns mit in sein Haus gegenüber vom Ordennshaus La Salette Er stammt aus dem Norden Chiles und lebt seit drei Jahren hier in Lubango.

52 & 37 Jahre auf Posten in Angola

„Gegenüber sind zwei Padres aus der Schweiz, geht die mal besuchen, sie sprechen deutsch!“, Louis vorschlagend.

Pater Josef ist agile 82 Jahre alt, aus Lichtenstein stammend und arbeitet seit 52 Jahren in Angola. Respekt! Pater Viktor kommt von Nebenan – aus der Schweiz – ist seit 37 Jahren in Angola tätig und hat das Ordenszentrum mit Schule, Scheinerei, Gästeunkterkünften und Seminarräumen aus dem Nichts aufgebaut. Zuvor viel im Landesinneren geschaffen. Toll! Josef hat noch die Kolonialzeit miterlebt, die rückblickend im Vergleich mit den 42 Kriegsjahren als die beste Zeit erscheint.

Todessturz für UNITA-Rebellen

„Es sind fürchterliche Dinge hier geschehen. Beim leicht überhängenden Steilabfall ins Tundavala, Tundatal hat die MPLA Sympatisanten und Kämpfer der UNITA hinabgestürzt.“, erzählt Pater Josef mit traurigem Gesicht, „Die Regierungsschergen der MPLA sammelten immer abends - besonders viele 1993 - die Leute der Rebellenbewegung UNITA in einem großen LKW ein. Schrecklich! Alle wußten genau wo es hingeht! Dann wurde einer nach dem anderen bei einem überhängenden Felsvorsprung gute 500 Meter in die Tiefe gestürzt!“ Die Greuel wurden eben von beiden Seiten begangen.

„Hattet ihr eigentlich Probleme mit der Polizei?“, will Pater Viktor wissen.

„Nein, nie, wir sind auch immer einfach an ihnen vorbeigefahren. Dann haben sie fast immer ihr Pfeiferl verschluckt.“

„Vor einiger Zeit hätten sie euch noch nach geschossen!“

„Wir haben inzwischen ein Gespür dafür bekommen, wieviel man sich herausnehmen kann. Polizei links liegen lassen ist inzwischen etwas alltägliches. Haben wir hunderte Male gemacht!“ Erspart lästige Verhandlungen. 

Die beiden laden uns zu einem deftigen Abendessen mit Käse, besten deutschen Fleischkonserven und deutschem Bier ein. Köstlich! Wie zu Hause - nur das wir dort eigentlich so gut wie nie Konserven essen.

 

Reperaturen

Endlich haben wir auch Zeit für einige Autoreparaturen: Stoßstange zurechtbiegen, damit wir die hinteren Türen wieder aufbekommen.

Leider hat es die Hydraulikleitung der Lenkung erwischt. Beim Ford Transit wird sie schlauerweise am Ende der Lenkung und entlang der unteren Seite des Rahmens geführt, so daß sie irgendwann trotz Schutzplatte mal gequetscht werden musste. Rüdiger schraubt die 5 mm Schutzplatte ab und findet die Bescherung – die Hydraulikleitung wird von der Lenksäule genau abgedrückt. Leitung zurechtbiegen  funktioniert als Notlösung. Wir werden jedoch morgen lieber zum von Louis empfohlenen Mechaniker fahren.

Pater Louis...

...hat 18 Kinder und Jugendliche aus verarmten Familien bei sich aufgenommen, damit sie die Schule besuchen können. Das Haus in dem alle leben hat den Charme eines in die Jahre gekommenen Kolonialhotels. Einige Hektar landwirtschaftlicher Grund gehören auch dazu. Es gibt sogar einen Traktor!

Heute machen wir Zwiebelsuppe, die uns leider ein wenig zu scharf gelungen ist. Pater Louis und seine Schützlinge halten sich jedoch wacker.

 












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